Our hardest days yet

La Souleuvre viaduct

The last two days have tested our stamina, leg muscles and headspace. We have encountered more hills on the rolling countryside, forest and towns in the lower Normandy countryside. We came across  the remains of an impressive viaduct built in 1889 engineered by Eiffel. As the image shows our very own AJ Hackett has commandeered the towers for a bungy operation. Cycled into Vire on a rail trail that we hope will take us most of the way to Mont St Michel. Fingers crossed. To finish off the day after pushing up a steep hill in the centre of Vire to the tourist office we were told that the campsite didn't open  until mid June. So we are luxuriating  in a very smart B and B, the first on our trip.

Countryside near Vire

Our route south

Normandy beaches and Bayaux

Since our last post we have arrived at the Normandy beaches one can see for many kilometres stretching down the coast the seaside towns ' sur mer'. All along the coast are memorials to soldiers who fell and victorious battles won. We had 2 days of flat riding, sun and little wind. We then turned south and headed inland to Bayaux and decided to have a cultural day looking at the 70 metre longBayaux tapestry dating from 1066 and depicting the Battle of Hastings and then a afternoon at the battle of Normandy museum. Bayaux is probably the nicest town we have encountered so far. Our journey to Mt St Michel begins tomorrow.

Memorial along Normandy beaches

Do am 1000 steps stone 54 AD

Bayaux cathedral

Replica of parts of Bayaux tapestry

Bayaux tapestry

Through Le Harve to the Normandy beaches

The journey through to the Normandy beaches has been a mixture of awful road and beautiful back country lanes on a marked route. As we approached Le Harve we meet a cyclist who told us it was very dangerous to get through the city and he was right. We had no route just a vague idea. As we negotiating a mixed cycle walking path un homme'  avec chien walked straight out of a blind corner without looking and Chas crashed into him sending both to the ground. Picture below tells the story... It could have been worse. However we still had the Pont du Normandie to negotiate consisting of 2 massive steep access suspensions bridges with instructions to push bikes not ride because no cycle lane and heavy traffic. It was a nightmare and we felt we had balls doing it but there was no alternative. Came out the other side to Honfluer, a very up market village full of tour buses. A beautiful little holiday town with a market and harbour. Still with the hills cycling west along Normandie coast. Have good maps for a cycle greenway through to Mt St Michel which should takes about a week to get there. At moment having a beer in the sun as the weather warms

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Main road of Etretat ...mayhem

Honfleur market

Honfleur harbour

Fabulous merry go round

Anzac poppies on side of road

Continuing south on the Veloroute du Littoral on the Cote d'Albatre

We have now hit the Alabaster Coast which is situated in Normandy. We have traveled near the coast, top of cliffs, headlands and seaside villages . By the very nature of the land the cycling has been quite tough with a mixture of long steep hills out of the seaside towns and of course long descents into the next. We have had a mixed bag of weather and currently today we are holed up in the tent looking like two days of rain and high wind. As pictures show when blue skies are present the country villages are delightful. It is interesting when cycling between towns that there are no fences on the paddocks only crops. The pictures below represent a slice of the scenery we have been travelling though since the last post.

Campsite near a nuclear power plant- safety instructions 

From Etaples towards Dieppe

We could teach the French a thing or two about camping ground sanitary facilities. Hot water is frequently not available and the showers tepid

Making our way down the coast, mixed hill, flat and the odd cycle lane. Roads a bit dicey without shoulders but drivers are certainly more courteous to cyclists than us Kiwis are!

Passed through the Bay of Somme and the main town St Valery du Somme. Everywhere there are war cemeteries. Today through coastal town of Treport with massive white cliffs above the sea, hence more uphill riding.

Massive rain storm and wind about 5mins after we put up the tent. Continued for 5 hours, good old MSR tent

River Somme

St Valery du Somme

Tourist steam train at St Valery

Cute houses in St Valery

Coastal France ain't flat

has an extra day off at Gravelines due to 50kmp head winds. Not for us. Next day headed towards Calais on the D940 and as it was a Sunday not to busy. Navigating through Calais was assisted by a cyclist who navigated us from one side to the other. In front of us all we could see was hills, not a good sign and proven not to be. It has taken its toll on the legs. Had 3 days of hills the second finishing in Boulonge sur mer where we stopped at a campsite attached to a bar. It was walking into the 'halo halo bar. The guy yelled out to someone and out came 'Edith'. She not only looked like her but the bloke stayed sitting while she did all the work. We have past numerous war cemeteries with many of the graves with unknown soldiers. Have arrived tonight in Etaples and head south tomorrow.

Calais

Chas on a hill

There'll be blue birds over...

Market day in village

Looking north

Cheers in Rene's bar

Our 'Edith'